Rubs

Three rubs and one argument about cinnamon. Each one lists what it makes, what it goes on, and what happens if you change the ratios.

The rubs

• Burger and Skillet Rub

  A low-sugar rub built for direct heat — burgers, steaks and anything going into a cast iron skillet. Coarse salt and pepper, coriander, and a little Ceylon cinnamon. Makes about half a cup.

• Ceylon vs Cassia in a BBQ Rub

  The two things sold as cinnamon behave differently in a barbecue rub. What the difference is, how to tell them apart in the jar, and when it actually matters.

• Cinnamon-Coffee Brisket Rub

  A coarse Central Texas brisket rub built on 16-mesh pepper and salt, with dark roast coffee and a small amount of Ceylon cinnamon for depth. Makes about one cup.

• Sweet Heat Pork Rub

  A brown sugar and paprika rub for pork butt, ribs and shoulder, with chipotle for heat and Ceylon cinnamon and allspice behind it. Makes about one and a quarter cups.